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Wrapped in Beauty: The Koelz Collection of Kashmiri Shawls
University of Michigan Press, 2005 Paper: 978-0-915703-60-9 | eISBN: 978-1-949098-79-2 Library of Congress Classification GN2.M5 no.93 Dewey Decimal Classification 391.44
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ABOUT THIS BOOK
This richly illustrated volume examines the remarkable Kashmiri shawls of the Walter Koelz Collection of the University of Michigan Museum of Anthropological Archaeology. Part I presents the history, production, forms, and ornamentation of Kashmiri shawls, focusing on the impact of social contexts and the advent of the Jacquard loom on shawl development. Part II is a detailed descriptive catalogue of the shawls in the Koelz Collection. An accompanying CD-ROM includes color illustrations of the shawls in the collection as well as a transcribed manuscript by Koelz. See other books on: 1895- | Beauty | Catalogs | Ethnological collections | Iran See other titles from University of Michigan Press |
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Wrapped in Beauty: The Koelz Collection of Kashmiri Shawls
ABOUT THIS BOOK | TOC | REQUEST ACCESSIBLE FILE
by Grace Beardsley, Carla M. Sinopoli and Kathleen D. Morrison
University of Michigan Press, 2005
Paper: 978-0-915703-60-9
eISBN: 978-1-949098-79-2
Paper: 978-0-915703-60-9
eISBN: 978-1-949098-79-2
This richly illustrated volume examines the remarkable Kashmiri shawls of the Walter Koelz Collection of the University of Michigan Museum of Anthropological Archaeology. Part I presents the history, production, forms, and ornamentation of Kashmiri shawls, focusing on the impact of social contexts and the advent of the Jacquard loom on shawl development. Part II is a detailed descriptive catalogue of the shawls in the Koelz Collection. An accompanying CD-ROM includes color illustrations of the shawls in the collection as well as a transcribed manuscript by Koelz.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents List of illustrations in Part I, 000 List of color plates, 000 Preface, 000 PART I: ABOUT THE COLLECTION CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION, 2 About the Koelz Collection, 2 The Organization of this Work, 4 CHAPTER 2. WALTER N. KOELZ AND HIS COLLECTIONS, 6 A Biographical Sketch, 6 The UMMA Koelz Collection, 8 CHAPTER 3. "TURBANS," (PATKAS), 15 CHAPTER 4. KASHMIR AND PERSIAN SHAWLS IN THEIR HISTORICAL CONTEXT, 20 The Historical Background of the Kashmir Shawl, 21 Early Development: Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, 21 Nineteenth-Century Production, 23 The Koelz Collection in Its Broader Contexts, 24 The Shawls, 25 Parts of a Shawl, 25 Size and Shape, 25 Weight, 29 Shawl Materials, 30 Understanding Weave, 35 Producers and Consumers, 40 The Production Process, 40 The Loom, 40 The Talim, 42 Working Conditions, 45 Expanding Demand and Its Impact on Production, 47 CHAPTER 5. DISSECTING THE KASHMIR SHAWL, PART 1: PIECEWORK AND STRUCTURAL PROPORTIONS, 50 Piecework As a Time-Saving Device, 50 The Needlework of Piecing, 51 Piecework Structures, 52 Rectilinear Piecing in Long Shawls, 53 Piecing in Square Shawls: Moon to Quatrefoil Format, 53 A Multi-Moon Design Layout, 55 A Quatrefoil Square Shawl, 61 Other Variants on the Moon Shawl, 64 The Elaboration of Fringe Gates, 66 Changing Structures: Increased Figure Area, 71 The Influence of the Jacquard Loom on Shawl Design, 72 CHAPTER 6. DISSECTING THE KASHMIR SHAWL, PART 2: DECORATIVE MOTIFS, 76 The Boteh Motif, 76 Symbolism of the Boteh: A Ubiquitous Natural Shape, 83 Radial Flower Motif, 84 Shared Motifs, 84 Beading, 88 Red-Flower-Green-Leaf Bel, 95 Wishbone-Rose Border, 95 Four-Fragrant-Flower Repeat, 96 References Cited, 97 Glossary, 100 PART II: CATALOGUE TURBANS/PATKAS, 104 UMMA 17387, 104 UMMA 17313, 106 LONG SHAWLS, 107 Long Shawls Woven Whole, 107 UMMA 17312, 108 Yardage Long Shawls, 110 UMMA 17314, 110 UMMA 17337, 112 UMMA 17339, 114 UMMA 17348, 116 Field Gallery Long Shawls, 119 UMMA 17328, 120 UMMA 17327, 122 UMMA 17333, 124 Block Pieced Long Shawls, 126 UMMA 17320, 126 Reworked Long Shawls, 128 UMMA 17310, 128 UMMA 17305, 130 UMMA 17334, 132 Strata-Field Long Shawls, 135 UMMA 17321, 136 UMMA 17309, 138 UMMA 17307, 140 UMMA 17335, 142 SQUARE SHAWLS, 144 Moon Shawls Woven Whole, 144 UMMA 17317, 146 UMMA 17323, 148 UMMA 17308, 150 Moon Shawls Woven Whole except for Attached Hashias, 152 UMMA 17330, 152 UMMA 17342, 154 UMMA 17344, 156 UMMA 17304, 158 UMMA 17316, 160 UMMA 17324, 164 UMMA 17311, 166 UMMA 17332, 168 Moon Shawls Pieced across the Middle, 170 UMMA 17306, 172 UMMA 17326, 174 UMMA 17319, 176 Square Shawls with Broad Field Gallery, 179 UMMA 17325, 180 UMMA 17340, 182 UMMA 17343, 184 Piecework Square Shawls, 186 UMMA 17369, 187 UMMA 17318, 190 UMMA 17345, 192 Strata-Field Square Shawls, 195 UMMA 17329, 196 UMMA 17315, 198 UMMA 17341, 200 Pieced Conglomerate Square Shawls, 202 UMMA 17322, 202 UMMA 17331, 204 UMMA 17336, 206 UMMA 17338, 208 Square Machine-Woven False Kashmir Shawl, 210 UMMA 47325, 210 PART III: COLOR PLATES LIST OF COLOR PLATES BY SHAWL TYPE, 212 COLOR PLATES, 000 UMMA 17387. Silk-embroidered cotton turban, 000 UMMA 17313. Fine creamy white wool turban or patka, 000 Detail of palla (UMMA 17313), 000 Detail of boteh motif (UMMA 17313), 000 UMMA 17312. Woven wool shawl, 000 UMMA 17314. Yellow wool shawl, 000 UMMA 17337. Striped pashmina shawl, 000 UMMA 17339. Red and white striped wool shawl, 000 UMMA 17348. Medallioned ivory-white shawl, 000 UMMA 17328. Parchment-white wool shawl, style of 1820s, 000 UMMA 17327. Striped wool shawl, style of ca. 1825, 000 UMMA 17333. Floral striped long shawl, style of ca. 1825, 000 Detail of palla and color tab fringe gate (UMMA 17333), 000 UMMA 17320. Red wool shawl, 000 Detail of mihrab fringe gate (UMMA 17320), 000 UMMA 17310. Black wool shawl, 1820-1830, 000 UMMA 17305. Blue wool shawl, second quarter of the nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17334. Striped wool shawl, possibly mid-nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17321. Red wool shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17309. Wool shawl-coverlet lined in cotton sateen, 1820-1830, 000 UMMA 17307. Red wool shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000 Fringe gate of pieced color blocks (UMMA 17307), 000 UMMA 17335. Red wool long shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000 Detail of UMMA 17335, 000 Detail of UMMA 17335, 000 UMMA 17317. Floral-striped moon shawl, perhaps 1800, 000 Detail of corner quarter-moon, end border, and fringe (UMMA 17317), 000 UMMA 17323. White wool moon shawl, style of ca. 1815, 000 UMMA 17308. Blue and white wool moon shawl, late eighteenth or early nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17330. White moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17342. Ivory wool moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 Detail of end border and field of shawl, UMMA 17342, 000 UMMA 17344. White wool moon shawl, around 1825, 000 UMMA 17344. Wishbone-rose motif and knotting of fringes, 000 UMMA 17304. White wool moon shawl, possibly 1825, 000 UMMA 17316. Brick-red moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17324. Red moon shawl, ca. 1815, 000 UMMA 17311. Red wool, multi-moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17332. Ikat medallion, wool shawl, ca. 1830s, 000 UMMA 17306. Red wool moon shawl, ca. 1825, 000 UMMA 17326. Red wool moon shawl, style of ca. 1830, 000 UMMA 17319. Striped wool moon shawl, style of 1825-1830, 000 UMMA 17325. Amber yellow and black wool shawl, style of second quarter of the nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17340. Crimson and white wool shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17343. Embroidered wool shawl, ca. 1830, 000 UMMA 17369. Crimson wool shawl, ca. 1870, 000 UMMA 17318. Piecework shawl, third quarter of the nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17345. Red wool shawl, third quarter of the nineteenth century, 000 Detail of mihrab fringe gate (UMMA 17345), 000 UMMA 17329. Red strata-field shawl, after 1820s, 000 UMMA 17315. Red strata-field shawl, post-1830, 000 UMMA 17341. Red strata-field shawl, post-1830, 000 UMMA 17322. White wool square shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000 UMMA 17331. Yellow wool shawl, field motifs of early nineteenth century style, 000 UMMA 17336. Red wool shawl, post-1825, 000 UMMA 17338. Wine red wool shawl, mid-nineteenth century or later, 000 UMMA 47325. Brocade, floral striped, black wool, square shawl, 000 TABLES AND ILLUSTRATIONS IN PART I TABLES 2.1. Koelz and Beardsley shawl classifications, 12 4.1. Cashmere goat hair compared with other animal textile fibers, 32 4.2. Quantities of shawls shipped from Indian cities in nineteenth century, 48 FIGURES 3.1. Soumak technique as used in weaving, 17 3.2. Radial flower, late-eighteenth-century motif, 19 4.1. Parts of a shawl, 26 4.2. Shawl sizes in the Koelz collection, 28 4.3. Range of Koelz shawl weights, 30 4.4. Incidence of woven colors in principal areas, 35 4.5. Representative thread counts of Koelz shawls, 37 4.6. Two/two twill double interlocked tapestry weave, 39 4.7. Analysis of a turquoise floret with yellow center and black outline, 43 4.8. Part of a Kashmiri talim, 44 5.1. Partial field portion of Persian rectilinear block pieced long shawl, 54 5.2. Multi-moon layout of square Kashmir shawl, 56 5.3. Piecing diagram of a Kashmir multi-moon shawl, 57 5.4. Design piecing system for one corner of a piecework shawl, 58 5.5. Layer weaving of shawl borders, 60 5.6. Piecing plan of a Persian multi-moon derivative shawl, 60 5.7. Piecing of different corners of a single shawl, 61 5.8. Proposed weaving plan for piecing parts of Persian shawl, 62 5.9. Partial piecing detail of a quatrefoil shawl's field corner, 63 5.10. Small, irregular pieces to be cut out and incorporated into piecework shawls, 65 5.11. Design development in nineteenth-century Kashmir square shawls, 67 5.12. Knotting of fringe gates, Balti long shawl, northern Kashmir, 68 5.13. Mihrab fringe gates, 69 5.14. Diagram of a single repeat in the fringe gate of a Persian shawl, 70 5.15. Scheme of fringe gate on a Persian shawl of the late nineteenth century, 70 5.16. Micro-threading draft illustrating point repeat, 73 5.17. Jacquard motif, 74 6.1. Celery botehs of the 1860s-1870s, 78 6.2. Mughal and Persian plant forms on seventeenth-century textiles, 79 6.3. Conventionalized seventeenth-century plant forms, 80 6.4. Transitional versions of the boteh composition, 81 6.5. Development of the boteh: designs evolving toward vase and dish, 82 6.6. Essentials of yun-tsai-t'ou design from carpet and shawl borders, 84 6.7. Variations of the hooked vine motif, 85 6.8. Burgeoning hooked vine runners, 86 6.9. Some variants of bugle beading found in guards of palla tanjirs, 87 6.10. Thickened bugle beads in a rhomboid shape, 88 6.11. Some hexagonal beading forms, 89 6.12. Beading on early-seventeenth-century hashia guard, 90 6.13. Yellow "birds" of tanjir guard flying with outstretched necks, 91 6.14. Residual beading of the later nineteenth century, 91 6.15. Wishbone-rose motif, 92 PLATES 2.1. Walter N. Koelz, 8 4.1. Himalayan goat, 31 4.2. Mr. John Mohammed Sheikh demonstrating shawl weaving, 41
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