Contents
Acknowledgments
Introduction
Part I. Aristocratic Excess and the Display of Rank
"Pride" from The Fable of the Bees (1724)
Bernard Mandeville
Letter to His Son (1750)
Lord Chesterfield
"The Man of the World" (1736)
Voltaire
"Discourse on the Arts and Sciences" (1750)
Jean-Jacques Rousseau
"Etiquette and Ceremony: Conduct and Sentiment of Human Beings as Functions of the Power Structure of Their Society" from The Court Society (1969)
Norbert Elias
Part II. Public Discourse and the Semiotics of Dress
"On Fashion" (1792)
Christian Garve
"An Answer to the Question: Would It Be Harmful or Beneficial to Establish a National Uniform?" (1791)
Samuel Simon Witte
"Adornment" from Sociology (1908)
Georg Simmel
Part III. Dress Reform and Gender
Masculine Simplicity
"The Benefits of a National Uniform, Declaimed by a Citizen" from Patriotic Fantasies (1775)
Justus Möser
"Men's Fashion" and "Men's Hats" (1898)
Adolf Loos
"The Great Masculine Renunciation and Its Causes" from The Psychology of Clothes (1930)
J. C. Flügel
Feminist Dress Reform
"The New Costume for the Ladies" and "The New Dress" from The Lily (1851)
"Some Realizations in Dress Reform" from Feminism in Germany and Scandinavia (1915)
Katharine Anthony
"Social Life" from The Second Sex (1953)
Simone de Beauvoir
Part IV. Idealist Aesthetics
"On Art and Craftwork" (1797), "On Objects Portrayed in Visual Arts" (1797), and "On Strict Aesthetic Judgments" (1798/1799)
Johann Wolfgang Goethe
"On Drapery" from Aesthetics (1820)
Georg W. F. Hegel
"Fashion and Cynicism" (1879)
Friedrich Vischer
Part V. Dandyism
"The Dandiacal Body" from Sartor Resartus (1831)
Thomas Carlyle
"The Anatomy of Dandyism with Some Observations on Beau Brummell" (1845)
Barbey D'Aurevilly
"The Dandy" from The Painter of Modern Life (1863)
Charles Baudelaire
"Fashion and the Modern" (1846)
Karl Gutzkow
"The Dialogue of Fashion and Death" from The Moral Essays (1824)
Giacomo Leopardi
Part VI. Glorifying the Artificial
"Beauty, Fashion, and Happiness," "Modernity," and "In Praise of Cosmetics" from The Painter of Modern Life (1863)
Charles Baudelaire
"Jewels" and "Wedding Presents" from La Dernière Mode (1874)
Stéphane Mallarmé
"The Pervasion of Rouge" (1896)
Max Beerbohm
"The Suitability of Dress" (1882)
Oscar Wilde
"The Eroticism of Clothes" from Die Fackel (1906)
Karl Kraus
"Analysis of the Cases (Complex of Symptoms)" from Transvestites: An Investigation into Erotic Masquerade (1910)
Magnus Hirschfeld
Part VII. Class Conflict and Status Emulation
"Conspicuous Consumption" and "Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture" from The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899)
Thorstein Veblen
"Fashion" (1901)
Georg Simmel
"Economy and Fashion: A Theoretical Contribution on the Formation of Modern Consumer Demand" (1902)
Werner Sombart
"Bourgeois Dress" (1912)
Eduard Fuchs
"Fashion" from The Principles of Sociology (1902)
Herbert Spencer
"Customs" (1909)
Ferdinand Tönnies
Notes
Permissions
Index




Library of Congress Subject Headings for this publication: Fashion History, Clothing and dress Social aspects