Desert Terroir: Exploring the Unique Flavors and Sundry Places of the Borderlands
by Gary Paul Nabhan
University of Texas Press, 2012 Cloth: 978-0-292-72589-8 | eISBN: 978-0-292-73588-0 Library of Congress Classification TX360.U62N33 2012 Dewey Decimal Classification 394.120972
ABOUT THIS BOOK | AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY | REVIEWS | TOC
ABOUT THIS BOOK
Why does food taste better when you know where it comes from? Because history—ecological, cultural, even personal—flavors every bite we eat. Whether it’s the volatile chemical compounds that a plant absorbs from the soil or the stories and memories of places that are evoked by taste, layers of flavor await those willing to delve into the roots of real food. In this landmark book, Gary Paul Nabhan takes us on a personal trip into the southwestern borderlands to discover the terroir—the “taste of the place”—that makes this desert so delicious.
To savor the terroir of the borderlands, Nabhan presents a cornucopia of local foods—Mexican oregano, mesquite-flour tortillas, grass-fed beef, the popular Mexican dessert capirotada, and corvina (croaker or drum fish) among them—as well as food experiences that range from the foraging of Cabeza de Vaca and his shipwrecked companions to a modern-day camping expedition on the Rio Grande. Nabhan explores everything from the biochemical agents that create taste in these foods to their history and dispersion around the world. Through his field adventures and humorous stories, we learn why Mexican oregano is most potent when gathered at the most arid margins of its range—and why foods found in the remote regions of the borderlands have surprising connections to foods found by his ancestors in the deserts of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. By the end of his movable feast, Nabhan convinces us that the roots of this fascinating terroir must be anchored in our imaginations as well as in our shifting soils.
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
Gary Paul Nabhan is an internationally celebrated desert explorer, plant hunter, and storyteller of the U.S.-Mexico borderlands, as well as a pioneer in the local foods movement. Nabhan is author or editor of twenty-four books, including Chasing Chiles: Hot Spots Along the Pepper Trail, The Desert Smells Like Rain, and Coming Home to Eat. This book reunites him with Paul Mirocha, the illustrator and co-conspirator of their award-winning Gathering the Desert. Nabhan has received a MacArthur “genius” fellowship and the Vavilov Medal, and he currently holds an endowed chair in sustainable food systems at the University of Arizona. At his home near the Mexican border, he tends an orchard of heirloom fruits and heritage crops.
REVIEWS
One of Napa Valley’s most prestigious winemakers recently said that there is no such thing as terroir. He scoffed at the idea… that wine somehow captures the essence of place. A scientist by training, he insisted instead that wine is the result of chemical processes that can be analysed and controlled, nothing more. Gary Paul Nabhan’s new book, Desert Terroir: Exploring the unique flavors and sundry places of the borderlands, is an eloquent refutation of that assertion. Like other proponents of terroir, Nabhan argues that sunlight, wind, rain and minerals in the soil all affect the way a given food tastes. But for him there is more. Terroir is also an expression of the hands of the women who rhythmically pat out tortillas in the borderlands between the United States and Mexico, and of the labours of ranch hands who graze sturdy Corriente cattle. It is found, too, in the ancestry of both human and plants. If we attune ourselves to our own history, and to that of the natural world, we stand to gain a keen appreciation for our planet’s myriad distinctive tastes… Nabhan is a natural storyteller.
— Times Literary Supplement
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Preface
Chapter 1: Introduction to Organics
Reasons to Go Organic
Converting to the Natural Organic Program
Chapter 2: Soil Building
Basic Soil Science
Soil Biology
Soil Texture
Nutrients
Soil Testing
Soil Amendments
Chapter 3: Planting
Basic Bed Preparation
Seed Planting
Cuttings
Transplants
Tree Planting
Potting Soil
Chapter 4: Fertilizing
How Organic Fertilizers Work
Foliar Feeding
Product Information
Refractometer
Chapter 5: Pest and Disease Control
The Real Purpose of Toxic Chemical Pesticides
Pests and Their Organic Remedies
Insect Pests
Structural Pest Control
Honeybees and Other Pollinators
Diseases
Weeds: The Disliked Plants
Chapter 6: Compost
Why Compost?
Compost Types and Methods
Compostable Materials
Composting Process
Warning Signs in Compost
Vermicomposting
Using Compost
Compost Tea
Chapter 7: Mulch
Mulch Types
Mulch Uses and Applications
Pitfalls of Mulching
The Science of Mulch
The Mulch Business
Mulches Not Recommended
Chapter 8: Landscaping
Landscaping Elements
Landscaping Specifications
Chapter 9: Commercial Growing Operations and Recreational
Properties
Commercial Growing Operations
Recreational Properties
Chapter 10: Organic Strategies and Global Climate Change
Desert Terroir: Exploring the Unique Flavors and Sundry Places of the Borderlands
by Gary Paul Nabhan
University of Texas Press, 2012 Cloth: 978-0-292-72589-8 eISBN: 978-0-292-73588-0
Why does food taste better when you know where it comes from? Because history—ecological, cultural, even personal—flavors every bite we eat. Whether it’s the volatile chemical compounds that a plant absorbs from the soil or the stories and memories of places that are evoked by taste, layers of flavor await those willing to delve into the roots of real food. In this landmark book, Gary Paul Nabhan takes us on a personal trip into the southwestern borderlands to discover the terroir—the “taste of the place”—that makes this desert so delicious.
To savor the terroir of the borderlands, Nabhan presents a cornucopia of local foods—Mexican oregano, mesquite-flour tortillas, grass-fed beef, the popular Mexican dessert capirotada, and corvina (croaker or drum fish) among them—as well as food experiences that range from the foraging of Cabeza de Vaca and his shipwrecked companions to a modern-day camping expedition on the Rio Grande. Nabhan explores everything from the biochemical agents that create taste in these foods to their history and dispersion around the world. Through his field adventures and humorous stories, we learn why Mexican oregano is most potent when gathered at the most arid margins of its range—and why foods found in the remote regions of the borderlands have surprising connections to foods found by his ancestors in the deserts of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. By the end of his movable feast, Nabhan convinces us that the roots of this fascinating terroir must be anchored in our imaginations as well as in our shifting soils.
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
Gary Paul Nabhan is an internationally celebrated desert explorer, plant hunter, and storyteller of the U.S.-Mexico borderlands, as well as a pioneer in the local foods movement. Nabhan is author or editor of twenty-four books, including Chasing Chiles: Hot Spots Along the Pepper Trail, The Desert Smells Like Rain, and Coming Home to Eat. This book reunites him with Paul Mirocha, the illustrator and co-conspirator of their award-winning Gathering the Desert. Nabhan has received a MacArthur “genius” fellowship and the Vavilov Medal, and he currently holds an endowed chair in sustainable food systems at the University of Arizona. At his home near the Mexican border, he tends an orchard of heirloom fruits and heritage crops.
REVIEWS
One of Napa Valley’s most prestigious winemakers recently said that there is no such thing as terroir. He scoffed at the idea… that wine somehow captures the essence of place. A scientist by training, he insisted instead that wine is the result of chemical processes that can be analysed and controlled, nothing more. Gary Paul Nabhan’s new book, Desert Terroir: Exploring the unique flavors and sundry places of the borderlands, is an eloquent refutation of that assertion. Like other proponents of terroir, Nabhan argues that sunlight, wind, rain and minerals in the soil all affect the way a given food tastes. But for him there is more. Terroir is also an expression of the hands of the women who rhythmically pat out tortillas in the borderlands between the United States and Mexico, and of the labours of ranch hands who graze sturdy Corriente cattle. It is found, too, in the ancestry of both human and plants. If we attune ourselves to our own history, and to that of the natural world, we stand to gain a keen appreciation for our planet’s myriad distinctive tastes… Nabhan is a natural storyteller.
— Times Literary Supplement
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Preface
Chapter 1: Introduction to Organics
Reasons to Go Organic
Converting to the Natural Organic Program
Chapter 2: Soil Building
Basic Soil Science
Soil Biology
Soil Texture
Nutrients
Soil Testing
Soil Amendments
Chapter 3: Planting
Basic Bed Preparation
Seed Planting
Cuttings
Transplants
Tree Planting
Potting Soil
Chapter 4: Fertilizing
How Organic Fertilizers Work
Foliar Feeding
Product Information
Refractometer
Chapter 5: Pest and Disease Control
The Real Purpose of Toxic Chemical Pesticides
Pests and Their Organic Remedies
Insect Pests
Structural Pest Control
Honeybees and Other Pollinators
Diseases
Weeds: The Disliked Plants
Chapter 6: Compost
Why Compost?
Compost Types and Methods
Compostable Materials
Composting Process
Warning Signs in Compost
Vermicomposting
Using Compost
Compost Tea
Chapter 7: Mulch
Mulch Types
Mulch Uses and Applications
Pitfalls of Mulching
The Science of Mulch
The Mulch Business
Mulches Not Recommended
Chapter 8: Landscaping
Landscaping Elements
Landscaping Specifications
Chapter 9: Commercial Growing Operations and Recreational
Properties
Commercial Growing Operations
Recreational Properties
Chapter 10: Organic Strategies and Global Climate Change
Global Warming by the Numbers
Organic Methods Make a Difference
The Link to Soil Life
Carbon-rich Organic Glue
Organic Material, Organic Matter, and Soil Carbon
Squashing the Symbiosis
Managing Trees in Landscapes as Carbon Sinks
Landscape and Turf Management
Conclusions
Appendix 1: Organic Treatment Formulas
Appendix 2: Sources for Organic Supplies
Appendix 3: Soil-Testing Resources
Appendix 4: Conversion Tables
Information Resources
Index
ABOUT THIS BOOK | AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY | REVIEWS | TOC