University of Texas Press, 2009 Paper: 978-0-292-71998-9 | eISBN: 978-0-292-79923-3 Library of Congress Classification TX840.B3E54 2009 Dewey Decimal Classification 641.760975
ABOUT THIS BOOK | AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY | REVIEWS | TOC
ABOUT THIS BOOK
Winner, Barbara Sudler Award, Colorado Historical Society, 2010
It's no overstatement to say that the state of Texas is a republic of barbecue. Whether it's brisket, sausage, ribs, or chicken, barbecue feeds friends while they catch up, soothes tensions at political events, fuels community festivals, sustains workers of all classes, celebrates brides and grooms, and even supports churches. Recognizing just how central barbecue is to Texas's cultural life, Elizabeth Engelhardt and a team of eleven graduate students from the University of Texas at Austin set out to discover and describe what barbecue has meant to Texans ever since they first smoked a beef brisket.
Republic of Barbecue presents a fascinating, multifaceted portrait of the world of barbecue in Central Texas. The authors look at everything from legendary barbecue joints in places such as Taylor and Lockhart to feedlots, ultra-modern sausage factories, and sustainable forests growing hardwoods for barbecue pits. They talk to pit masters and proprietors, who share the secrets of barbecue in their own words. Like side dishes to the first-person stories, short essays by the authors explore a myriad of barbecue's themes—food history, manliness and meat, technology, nostalgia, civil rights, small-town Texas identity, barbecue's connection to music, favorite drinks such as Big Red, Dr. Pepper, Shiner Bock, and Lone Star beer—to mention only a few. An ode to Texas barbecue in films, a celebration of sports and barbecue, and a pie chart of the desserts that accompany brisket all find homes in the sidebars of the book, while photographic portraits of people and places bring readers face-to-face with the culture of barbecue.
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
Elizabeth S. D. Engelhardt, formerly Associate Professor of American Studies at the University of Texas at Austin and now John Shelton Reed Distinguished Professor of Southern Studies at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, writes and studies food, gender, race, and class in the southern United States. She and eleven of her graduate students at UT-Austin set out to study the life and culture of barbecue in central Texas. They're a diverse group that includes native Texans, people from other barbecue strongholds of the U.S. South, a Chicagoan, and even a couple of northeasterners. They all share a passion for listening to stories, debating and trying to understand American cultures, and eating lots of barbecue.
REVIEWS
Tar Heels probably shouldn’t own up to liking Texas barbecue, but we have no hesitation about saying that we love this book about it. The voices of the folks who make it happen and this book’s wonderful photographs add up to a splendid portrait of Lone Star barbeculture.
— John Shelton Reed and Dale Volberg Reed, authors of Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue
This beautiful collection, colorful enough to display as a coffee-table book, contributes significantly to the oral history tradition and the study of barbecue simultaneously.
— Journal of American Folklore
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Foreword: Plotting the Barbecue Republic, by John T. Edge
Acknowledgments: We Raise Our Glasses
Sidebar: Twenty-four Hours of Barbecue
Introduction: The Life and Times of Central Texas Barbecue
Section 1: Food and Foodways
Stories from Joe Sullivan, House Park Bar-B-Que, Austin, Texas
The Central Texas Plate
A Pie Chart of Desserts Sidebar
Miles of Hanging Meat: Legacies and Linkages of Sausage
Things You Could Make A Smoker Out of If Your Name Is MacGyver Sidebar
Drinking Texas History
In Homage to Big Red Sidebar
Stories from the Archie Family, Church of the Holy Smoke, New Zion Missionary Baptist Church Barbecue, Huntsville, Texas
Stories from Marvin Dziuk, Dziuk's Meat Market, Castroville, Texas
Section 2: Ideas of Place
Stories from Ben Wash, Ben's Long Branch Barbecue, Austin, Texas
Stories from the Inman Family, Inman's Ranch House, Marble Falls, Texas
The Bridge to Ben's: Connecting City Politics to Neighborhood Barbecue
Planes, Trains, and . . . Kayaks? Sidebar
Red Dust, White Bread, Blue Collar at the Edges of Small-Town Texas
Barbecue on Screen Sidebar
Stories from the Meyer Family, Meyer's Sausage Company and Meyer's Elgin Smokehouse, Elgin, Texas
Stories from Terry Wootan, Cooper's Old Time Pit Barbecue, Llano, Texas
Section 3: Dreaming of Old Texas and Original Barbecue
Stories from Vencil Mares, Taylor Cafe, Taylor, Texas
Stories from Rick Schmidt, Kreuz Market, Lockhart, Texas
Keep Your Eye on the Boll
Timeline of Political Barbecues Sidebar
Barbacoa? The Curious Case of a Word
Authenticity: The Search for the Real Thing
Stories from Aurelio Torres, Mi Madre's, Austin, Texas
Stories from the Bracewell Family, Southside Market, Elgin, Texas
Section 4: Ways of Life
Stories from Nicole Dugas, Barbecuties, Austin, Texas
Stories from Richard Lopez, Gonzales Food Market, Gonzales, Texas
Cavemen and Fire Builders: Manliness and Meat
The Feminine Mesquite
Brides and Brisket Sidebar
"No Son Sandías": Girlhood on the Ranch
Stories from Bobby Mueller, Louie Mueller Barbecue, Taylor, Texas
Stories from Joe Capello, City Market, Luling, Texas
Section 5: Bright Lights, Barbecue Cities
Stories from Pat Mares, Ruby's Barbecue, Austin, Texas
Stories from Waunda Mays, Sam's Barbecue, Austin, Texas
Eating Meat to the Beat: Music and Texas Barbecue
Barbecue Melodies: Post Oak Smoke Gets in Their Eyes? Sidebar
Thinking Locally, Barbecuing . . . Globally?
Foreign Barbecue Sidebar
Placeless Barbecues: The Strange but True Story of Chains, Stands, and Interstates
University of Texas Press, 2009 Paper: 978-0-292-71998-9 eISBN: 978-0-292-79923-3
Winner, Barbara Sudler Award, Colorado Historical Society, 2010
It's no overstatement to say that the state of Texas is a republic of barbecue. Whether it's brisket, sausage, ribs, or chicken, barbecue feeds friends while they catch up, soothes tensions at political events, fuels community festivals, sustains workers of all classes, celebrates brides and grooms, and even supports churches. Recognizing just how central barbecue is to Texas's cultural life, Elizabeth Engelhardt and a team of eleven graduate students from the University of Texas at Austin set out to discover and describe what barbecue has meant to Texans ever since they first smoked a beef brisket.
Republic of Barbecue presents a fascinating, multifaceted portrait of the world of barbecue in Central Texas. The authors look at everything from legendary barbecue joints in places such as Taylor and Lockhart to feedlots, ultra-modern sausage factories, and sustainable forests growing hardwoods for barbecue pits. They talk to pit masters and proprietors, who share the secrets of barbecue in their own words. Like side dishes to the first-person stories, short essays by the authors explore a myriad of barbecue's themes—food history, manliness and meat, technology, nostalgia, civil rights, small-town Texas identity, barbecue's connection to music, favorite drinks such as Big Red, Dr. Pepper, Shiner Bock, and Lone Star beer—to mention only a few. An ode to Texas barbecue in films, a celebration of sports and barbecue, and a pie chart of the desserts that accompany brisket all find homes in the sidebars of the book, while photographic portraits of people and places bring readers face-to-face with the culture of barbecue.
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
Elizabeth S. D. Engelhardt, formerly Associate Professor of American Studies at the University of Texas at Austin and now John Shelton Reed Distinguished Professor of Southern Studies at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, writes and studies food, gender, race, and class in the southern United States. She and eleven of her graduate students at UT-Austin set out to study the life and culture of barbecue in central Texas. They're a diverse group that includes native Texans, people from other barbecue strongholds of the U.S. South, a Chicagoan, and even a couple of northeasterners. They all share a passion for listening to stories, debating and trying to understand American cultures, and eating lots of barbecue.
REVIEWS
Tar Heels probably shouldn’t own up to liking Texas barbecue, but we have no hesitation about saying that we love this book about it. The voices of the folks who make it happen and this book’s wonderful photographs add up to a splendid portrait of Lone Star barbeculture.
— John Shelton Reed and Dale Volberg Reed, authors of Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue
This beautiful collection, colorful enough to display as a coffee-table book, contributes significantly to the oral history tradition and the study of barbecue simultaneously.
— Journal of American Folklore
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Foreword: Plotting the Barbecue Republic, by John T. Edge
Acknowledgments: We Raise Our Glasses
Sidebar: Twenty-four Hours of Barbecue
Introduction: The Life and Times of Central Texas Barbecue
Section 1: Food and Foodways
Stories from Joe Sullivan, House Park Bar-B-Que, Austin, Texas
The Central Texas Plate
A Pie Chart of Desserts Sidebar
Miles of Hanging Meat: Legacies and Linkages of Sausage
Things You Could Make A Smoker Out of If Your Name Is MacGyver Sidebar
Drinking Texas History
In Homage to Big Red Sidebar
Stories from the Archie Family, Church of the Holy Smoke, New Zion Missionary Baptist Church Barbecue, Huntsville, Texas
Stories from Marvin Dziuk, Dziuk's Meat Market, Castroville, Texas
Section 2: Ideas of Place
Stories from Ben Wash, Ben's Long Branch Barbecue, Austin, Texas
Stories from the Inman Family, Inman's Ranch House, Marble Falls, Texas
The Bridge to Ben's: Connecting City Politics to Neighborhood Barbecue
Planes, Trains, and . . . Kayaks? Sidebar
Red Dust, White Bread, Blue Collar at the Edges of Small-Town Texas
Barbecue on Screen Sidebar
Stories from the Meyer Family, Meyer's Sausage Company and Meyer's Elgin Smokehouse, Elgin, Texas
Stories from Terry Wootan, Cooper's Old Time Pit Barbecue, Llano, Texas
Section 3: Dreaming of Old Texas and Original Barbecue
Stories from Vencil Mares, Taylor Cafe, Taylor, Texas
Stories from Rick Schmidt, Kreuz Market, Lockhart, Texas
Keep Your Eye on the Boll
Timeline of Political Barbecues Sidebar
Barbacoa? The Curious Case of a Word
Authenticity: The Search for the Real Thing
Stories from Aurelio Torres, Mi Madre's, Austin, Texas
Stories from the Bracewell Family, Southside Market, Elgin, Texas
Section 4: Ways of Life
Stories from Nicole Dugas, Barbecuties, Austin, Texas
Stories from Richard Lopez, Gonzales Food Market, Gonzales, Texas
Cavemen and Fire Builders: Manliness and Meat
The Feminine Mesquite
Brides and Brisket Sidebar
"No Son Sandías": Girlhood on the Ranch
Stories from Bobby Mueller, Louie Mueller Barbecue, Taylor, Texas
Stories from Joe Capello, City Market, Luling, Texas
Section 5: Bright Lights, Barbecue Cities
Stories from Pat Mares, Ruby's Barbecue, Austin, Texas
Stories from Waunda Mays, Sam's Barbecue, Austin, Texas
Eating Meat to the Beat: Music and Texas Barbecue
Barbecue Melodies: Post Oak Smoke Gets in Their Eyes? Sidebar
Thinking Locally, Barbecuing . . . Globally?
Foreign Barbecue Sidebar
Placeless Barbecues: The Strange but True Story of Chains, Stands, and Interstates